You have now decided where and what to grow and the sort of
manure you are going to use.
If you are cultivating a new area,
you may well have to remove grass. Before you dig it in or remove
it and stack it somewhere to rot, it is worth considering whether
you can sell it for turf. The best turf comes from new leys neatly
cropped by sheep; your turf may be like this or it may be a
portion of garden you are digging up with equally suitable lawn
grass. In any case have a good look at it. There is nothing more
heartening in a new venture than to get an instant cash return.
Whenever you are cultivating, remove and burn perennial weeds.
Each weed you remove will save you dozens next year. Never be
tempted to put such horrors on the compost heap or they will
merrily return along with the manure. In fact, many permanent
weeds grow from chopped up bits of themselves so you could
greatly increase your problem if you hope to simply dig them in.
Aim to have the area dug and manured by Christmas; you can
then celebrate with an easy mind while frost and rain complete
your work.
When you can get on to your land again depends on your soil
type. Heavy soils mean late access; light soils mean you can get
going early. In any case, you should now find that the top few
inches of soil break down to a fine crumbly tilth when raked.
You may find that the soil beneath is compacted. One cause of
bad drainage is continually rotivating at a set depth: this causes
the soil beneath to become compacted and water finds it difficult
to drain away. If this is your problem, you will have to dig right
down and loosen the bottom layer. This is remarkably heavy work
and certainly worth avoiding by varying the heights at which you
rotivate.
cultivating