So far we have assumed that all the chicks, layers and fatteners,
are being bought in.
You may well decide to breed and rear your
own. In fact, the margin in cash terms of buying or home-rearing
point of lay birds always seems very small. However, home-reared
birds have a bonus — they are often the most economic and
prolific egg-layers. After all they have not had a traumatic move
and a change of routine to adapt to; they are not faced with a
whole new lot of bugs to contend with either. The same argument
applies to chicks for fattening. Naturally it is only worth breeding
from really good stock of a suitable breed. A chicken that naturally
produces only a few eggs a year — take as an extreme example the
jungle fowl which only lays one clutch of around a dozen in a
year — is not going to produce an economic 300 eggs however
much you feed her.
To produce fertile eggs cockerels are required. With a few hens,
you need one cock to 8 to 12 hens. If you are running batches of
100 hens together, one cock to every 15 to 17 hens is sufficient.
Hens in their second year tend to lay fewer but larger eggs. These
eggs often hatch better than first-year ones. If you select the best
looking of your first-year hens, keep them until they have finished
moulting and then run the cocks with them, you should get an
excellent result. The eggs will be fully fertile five days after the
first mating; eggs laid will continue to be fertile for five days after
the cocks have been removed. Fertile eggs can be hatched under a
broody hen or in an incubator. You can tell a broody hen by its
unwillingness to leave the nest: if you lift her up she will trot back
again in a few minutes. She can hatch up to a dozen eggs quite
happily. She will sit on them for 21 days.
breeding your own chickens