Hives generally have two storage layers, referred to as 'supers'.
When these are both full, a third layer can be added. On top of
this high-rise bee-house is a roof to keep out the rain. The hive
should have ventilation holes at the top.
In the winter you should
put a mouse-guard at the entrance hole; a bee-house is just as
desirable a residence as a human house to an autumn mouse, no
doubt even more so as it is crammed with delectable honey. The
mouse would not last long as the bees kill intruders but the carcass
is too large for them to remove and is therefore a possible source
of infection. What the bees would do to counteract this is typical
of bee ingenuity. They would form a layer of propolis over the
dead intruder. This is the substance collected from leaf buds by
the industrious bees. Being resinous, it is a strong glue and is used
in hive construction; it is also a natural antibiotic and would help
to prevent the decomposing mouse from infecting the hive.
Really competent woodworkers may find constructing a hive
part of the overall challenge of keeping bees. The rest of us are
probably best advised to buy one. You can often buy second-hand
hives and it is also possible to construct fairly simple outer boxes
and simply buy the frames to hang inside them. Some enterprising
beekeepers convert dustbins to use as hives. These are apparently
very successful, even if they look somewhat unromantic. The most
romantic hives of all are the original straw skeps that our ancestors
used. We in fact use a drawing of one of these on the honey fudge
that we sell. They are certainly less productive and we use the
modern hive in reality to produce the honey. In any case, whatever
kind of hive you decide to use, you can be sure that for each
hive occupied this year you can expect to fill another with bees
next year when your bees swarm.
bee hive construction